HISTORICAL PLACES OF ISTANBUL
Facing St. Sofia stands the supremely elegant, six-minaret,
imperial Mosque. Built between 1609 and 1616 by the architect Mehmet, the building is more familiarly known as
the Blue Mosque because its interior gleams with a magnificent paneling of blue and white Iznik tiles. During the
summer months an evening light and sound show both entertain and inform.
The cascading domes
and four slender minarets of Süleymaniye Mosque dominate the skyline on the Golden Horn's west bank. Considered
the most beautiful of all imperial mosques in Istanbul,it was built between 1550 and 1557 by Sinan, the renowned
architect of the Ottoman golden age. On the crest of a hill, the building is conspicuous by its great size, which
the minarets that rise from each corner of the courtyard emphasize. Inside, the mihrab (prayer niche) and the mimber
(pulpit) are of finely carved white marble; fine stained glass windows color the incoming streams of light. It
was in the gardens of this complex that Süleyman and his wife Hürrem Sultan, Roxelane, had their mausoleum
built, and near here also that Sinan built his own tomb. The mosque complex also includes four medrese, or theological
schools, a school of medicine, a caravanserai, a Turkish bath, and a kitchen and hospice for the poor.
Another skillful accomplishment of the architect Sinan, the Rüstem Paþa Mosque was built in 1
561 on the order of Rüstem Paþa, Grand Vizier and son-in-law
of Süleyman the Magnificent. Exquisite Iznik tiles panel the small and superbly proportioned interior.
The imperial Fatih Mosque, constructed between 1463 and 1470, bears the name of the Ottoman conqueror of Istanbul,
Fatih Sultan Mehmet, and is the site of his mausoleum. Standing atop another of Istanbul's hills,its vast size
and great complex of religious buildings,medreses,hospices, baths, a hospital, a caravanserai and a library, make
it well worth a visit.
The great Mosque of Eyüp lies outside the city walls, near the Golden Horn, at the supposed place where Eyüp
, the standard bearer of the Prophet Mohammed, died in the Islamic assault on Constantinople in 670 A.D. The first
mosque built after the Ottoman conquest of the city, this greatly venerated shrine attracts many pilgrims.
Built between 1597 and 1663, the Yeni (New) Mosque hovers over the harbor at Eminönü,greeting the incoming
ferryboats
and welcoming tourists to the old city. Today its graceful domes and arches shelter hundreds of pigeons who make
this area their home. Marvelous Iznik tiles decorate the Sultan's balcony
Ayasofya Museum
The Basilica of St. Sophia, now called the Ayasofya Museum , is unquestionably one of the finest buildings of all
time .Built by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Justinian in the 6th century, its immense dome rises
55 meters above the ground and its diameter spans 31 meters. You should linger here to absorb the building's majestic
serenity and to admire the fine Byzantine mosaics. (Open every day except Monday).
Istanbul has some of the most I exciting museums, ranging from the magnificent Haghia Sophia to the intimate Sadberk
Hamm Museum. Entrance fees, where charged, are very reasonable.
Archaeological Museums (Archeology
Muzeleri)
Te
l: 520 77 40 Across from the Cinli (Tiled) Kiosk sn Topkapi Palace's outermost court zs the magnificent
Archaeological Museum. The first jolly and the annex of the museum is open to the public, displaying a selection
of the 60,000 Greco- Roman and Neay Eastern antiquities in the collection, including more than 75,000 inscribed
clay tablets. Don't miss the wonderfully preserved Alexander Saycophagus found in Sidon and the treaty of Kadesh,
the first peace treaty every to be signed in the world. The museum brings to life the peoples of the ancient Middle
East. Recently opened special educational section for children. Open 09.30-16.30. Closed Mondays.
Ataturk Museum
Halaskârgazi Caddesi 250, Sisli Tel: 240 6319 Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, lived here briefly. The house displays some of hr. personal effects. 09.30-16.30. Closed Thursdays and Sundays.
Calligraphy Museum (Mat Sanatlari
Muzesi)
Beyazit Square, Tel: 527 58 51 The Ottomans, always uneasy with human pictorial representation, found fully artistic
expression in calligraphy. This is the only museum of calligraphy in the world. 09.00-16.00. Closed Sundays and
Mondays.
Carpet and Kilim Museum (Mah ve
Kilim Muzesi)
(Next to the Blue Mosque), , Tel: 518 13 30 A wonderful collection of ancient kilim and carpets in a very cool,
marble environment. Also a large collection ofcarpets. 09.00-12.00, 13.00-16.00. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Divan Literature Museum (Divan
Edebiyati Muzesi)
Galip Dede Caddesi 15, Tünel, Beyoglu, Tel: 245 4141. Also called the Galata Mevlevihane, this is where the
mystic "Whirling Dervishes" perform "Sema" dances and Suf music, on the last Sunday of every
month. A memorable experience not to be missed. A fine display of instruments and dervish accessories. Closed Mondays.
Maghia Sophia
Tel: 52217 50 The Church of Holy Wisdom is undoubtedly one of the greatest architectural creations in the world.
Built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian circa AD535, it was transformed into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest
of the city in 1453. Now a museum, it is awesome in size, and contains beautifully preserved Byzantine mosaics.
Hanging alongside the pictures of Christ are huge wooden discs proclaiming the greatness of Allah: a meeting point
of religions. A must for any visitor to Istanbul. 9.30-16.30. Closed Mondays.
Kariye
Museum (The Church of St. Saviour fn Chora)
Kariye Catnu Sokak, Edirnekapi, Tel: 63192 41 A legendary Byzantine church decorated with extraordinary late- l4th
century frescoes and mosaics portraying the life and miracles of Christ. The most important and extensive series
of Byzantine paintings in the city and among the most significant in the world. 09.30-16.30. Closed Tuesdays.
Maritime Museum (Deniz Muzesi)
Besiktas Tel: 26100 40 Includes examples of the extraordinary caiques that used to row the Sultans to and from
their homes along the Bosphorus. 09.30- 17.00. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Mosaic Museum
Opposite Arasta Bazaar (behind the Blue Mosque), , Tel: 51812 05 Houses the beautiful mosaics discovered in Justinian's
Grand Palace of Byzantium. 09.30-17.00. Closed Tuesdays.
Museum of the 1839 Reforms /Tanzimat
Muzesi)
Gulhane Park, Tel: 512 63 84 A small museum celebrating
the century attempt to catch up with the rest of Europe. Open every day 09.00-17.00.
Rahmi M. Koc Industrial Museum
Haskoy Caddesi 27, Sutluce, on the Golden Horn, Tel: 256 7153/54
A recently opened museum which gives an exciting glimpse into Istanbul's industrial past. Displays
include scale models of steam engines, ships, cars, a full Maklin train set which visitors can operate and a fully
recreated ship's bridge. Open 10.00-17.00. Closed Monday.
Sadberk Mamm Museum
Buyukdere Caddesi 27-29, Sanyer Tel: 242 3813 Excellent archaeological and ethnographical collections displayed
in two handsome old mansions on the Bosphorus.10.30-17.00. Closed Wednesdays.
Topkapi Palace Museum
Tel: 512 04 80 The legendary palace of the Ottoman sultans from the l5th to the l9th centuries. Low buildings set
in a series of courtyards, Topkapi is quite unlike a Western palace. Be sure to see the Harem, the Treasury and
the golden-roofed Baghdad Kiosk. 09.30-17.00. Closed Tuesdays.
The Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Art
At Meydam 46, , Tel: 51813 85, 51818 05 A delightful museum on the ancient Hippodrome, housed in Ibrahim PaSa Sarayi,
the home of Suleyman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier. Beautifully displayed Islamic objects and antique carpets.10.00-
17 00. Closed Mondays.
Yildiz Palace Museum (Marangozhane)
Yildiz Palace, Barbaros Bulvari, Besiktas, Tel: 258 30 80/ext. 280 The converted carpentry workshop of Sultan Abdulhamit
now houses exquisite porcelain pieces, giant vases and the joinery produced by the Sultan himself. Open 10.00-
16.00. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Istanbul has hundreds of mosques, both monumental and
intimate. Mosques are open to visitors every day outside worshipping hours, which are announced by the muezzins
call to prayer. All visitors are asked to remove their shoes and women are expected to cover their heads before
entering. A few of the most architecturally interesting are:
Blue Mosque ( Camii)
Square The most famous mosque in the city, built in the early l7th century, distinguished by six slender minarets
and walls covered with amazing blue Iznik tiles. Open every day except during prayer times. Facing St. Sophia stands
the supremely elegant, six-minaret, imperial Mosque. Built between 1609 and 1616 by the architect Mehmet.
Eyup Mosque
Eyup For the Islamic world, this is the holiest mosque in all of Istanbul. The Ottoman sultans held their coronation
ceremonies here. The faithful still flock here to pray to the relics of Eyup, a companion of the Prophet. Be sue
not to visit on Fridays, when the mosque is packed with woyshippers. Up the hill through the graveyard is the atmospheric
Pierre Loti Cafe, of
ersng
refreshments and an arresting view of the Golden Horn.
Nuruosmaniye Mosque
Cagaloglu An 18th century mosque influenced by baroque architecture. Considered a turning point in mosque architecture.
Ortakoy Mosque
Ortakoy A superb setting on a point jutting into the Bosphorus. This Ottoman baroque mosque displays a wonderful
sculptural approach.
Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque
Near the Covered Bazaar, an intimate Sinan mosque, built in a confned space, but nevertheless breathtakingly beautiful.
Suleymaniye Mosque
Beyazit Sinan's masterpiece. The massive scale of this mosque is best appreciated from a distance. Up close, the
mosque is formal and rather forbidding, but it is interesting to wander around the surrounding complex of buildings.
Yeni Cami (New Mosque)
Eminonu A late example of classical Ottoman architectuye, this is one of the most familiar landmarks in the city.
The city abounds with churches of various denominations.
A few churches of particular interest are:
St. Anthony of Padua
Istiklal
Caddesi,
Tunel One of the city's best known functioning Roman Catholic churches.
Church of St. George
Fener The seat of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate.
Christ Church
Serdari Ekrem Sokak 82, Tunel, Beyoglu A restored Anglican church, formerly known as the Crimean Memorial church,
designed by the famous Victorian architect C.E. Street
St. Mary Pammakaristos (Fethiye
Cami)
Fener, Tel:522 17 50 Many Byzantine emperors are buried here. Permission to visit must be obtained from the Haghia
Sophia Museum, 09.30-17.00, closed Mondays
SS Sergius and Bacchus (Kucuk
Ayasofya)
A Byzantine church built in Emperor Justinian's era. A must for architectural historians.
St. Stephen of the Bulgars
Fener Styanded in the middle of the Golden Horn road, this l9th century structure is built entirely of iyon. It
was prefabricated in Vienna and sent via the Danube to be ejected here to celebrate the independence of the Bulgarian
Church.
Palace
Drag, Tel: (216) 32193 20 A restored summer palace of the late Ottoman sultans, built of white marble. 09.30-16.00.
Closed Mondays and Thuysdays.
Ciragan Palace
Besiktas The formed summer home of the Ottoman sultans, now rebuilt as part of the complex of the Ciragan Palace
HoteL Kempinski.
Dolmabahçe Palace
Besiktas Tel: 258 55 44 The l9th century rococco residence of the Ottoman sultans, and the place where Ataturk
died in 1938. beautifully situated, with a 600 meter frontage on the Bosphorus
s, an impressive ballroom, and ornate Victorian furniture embodying the Turkish assimilation of
European culture. Visitors are admitted in groups, Led by the museum's guides. Try to go early in the morning,
later in the day it may be fully booked. 09.00-16.00. Closed Monday and Thursday.
Ihlamur Palace
Ihlamurdere Caddesi, Besiktas , Tel: 261 29 91 A sylvan imperial rest house that remains serene in the midst of
city traffic. 09.00-17.00. Closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Sale Kosku (Yildiz Park)
Besiktas, Tel: 259 45 70 Late Ottoman imperial palaces, this time set in the hills above the Bosphorus, in the leafy Yildiz Park. Sale (Chalet) Kosku is an elegant wooden building which served as residence for foreign state guests and is now a museum, 09.30-16.00, Closed Mondays and Thursdays.
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarayi)
Yerebatan Caddesi, Square, Tel: 52212 59 The vast awesome columned cavern was the water source for both the Grand
palace of the Byzantines and for the OttomansTopkapi palace. Open 09.00-17.30.
The Bosphorus
The straits which divide Europe from Asia and define Istanbul. A trip to the city would not 6e complete without
a cruise up and down its shores. Imperial palaces are interspersed with wooden seaside mansions, decorative ferry
landings, the twin fortresses of Rumeli Hisar and Anadolu Hisar, and two intercontinental bridges. Along the way,
stop to explore Rumeli Hisar (Open 09.30-1700 except Monday). Sultan Mehmet had the castle built in 1452 so he
could lay siege to the city. If you take the circular tour from Eminonu (2 hours each way) you can enjoy a fish
lunch at Anadolu Kavagi. Ferry-boats also leave from Eminonu for various points along the waterway. Private boats
can be hired during the summer.
The Covered Bazaar (Kapali Carsisi)
Has several gates: most used are at Cagaloglu and Beyazit Istanbul's legendary bazaar, a labyrinth of over 4000
little shops, is everything you dreamed an oriental market could be. Gold jewellery, carpets, silver bibelots,
leather, ceramics, copper and bras objects, embroideries, hand-woven textiles, meerschaum pipes-in other words
a treasure trove. Best approached from the Nuruosmaniye I entrance. Open 09.00-19.00 ' Monday-Saturday.
Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi)
Buyukhendek Sokak, Sishane Tel: 2451160 Worth
climbing to the top for the view from this l4th century Genoese folly. 08.00-21.00. Open every day.
The Princes Islands
A group of nine islands four of them-Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Buyukada-inhabited. A favorite summer
place since Byzantine times, the islands are a haven of quiet. With their beautiful villas and pine groves, they
offer lovely walks all year round. No private cars are allowed, so
transportation is either by foot, horse drawn carriage or donkey. Ferry-boats leave from Sirkeci,
Kadikoy and Bostanca and sea buses operate infrequently from Kabatas and Bostanci (call 362 04 44 for sea bus information).
A charming excursion.
The Spice or Egyptian Bazaar
(Misir Carsisi)
Eminonu An exotic food market and bazaar selling spices, dried fruits cheeses, olives, as well as towels, slippers,
baskets and some jewellery. Outside, to the left, there is a wonderful flower and bird market and to the right
merchants busily sell vegetables and fish with lots of local color. Open Monday- Saturday 09.00-19.00.
Yildiz Park
(entrance on coast road between Besiktas and Ortakoy)
The Sultans private park, now open to the public, with two lovely buildings-Malta Kosk and Cadir Kosk. Both places
have marvelous terraces. Also don't miss the elegant wooden Sale (Chalet) Kosku inside the park which is a museum.
The park is a favourite of courting couples.
SHOPPING
Shopping is one of the biggest pleasures of being in
Turkey. From the little '' corner '' shop ( Bakkal )to the colorful street markets and bazaars there will be plenty
to tempt you.Main shopping hours are from 9am until 11pm. The Turks pride themselves on their hospitality, so do
not be surprised if you are invited in out of the sun and offered a refreshing drink while the shop-keeper shows
off his display. This is all part of what makes shopping in Turkey fun and you should not feel obliged to buy.
The weekly street markets are full of life and color,with the local people bringing their produce to sell.
You will see an abundance of seasonal fruits and vegetables, olives, cheese, honey and herbs and
spices.Turkey grows its own cotton and the markets are excellent for cotton products. Turkey exports items such
as bed linen and towels to chain stores in foreign countries, so these are a particularly good
buy at the fraction of the price you would pay at home.
WHAT TO BUY
Kilims & Carpets
A good quality Turkish carpet is perhaps the ultimate souvenir. If you intend to buy on, here are a few
hints;
· Stick to reputable carpet dealers and ask lots
of questions about the history of the carpet if it is
being sold as '' hand-made ''.
· To check that the fabric is not synthetic, put a match to the fringe; real silk and wool do not burn easily,
whereas synthetic materials glow and may give off a chemical smell.
· Check the closeness of the weave by looking at the back of the carpet. The closer the weave and the
smaller the knot, the higher the price. Wet a handkerchief and rub it over to check color fastness and look carefully
for repairs.
· In a reputable shop you will be issued with a certificate of authenticity.
Jewellery
Gold is sold in either 14 or 22 carats and is generally significantly cheaper than in most of the other countries.
It is sold by weight with a little added for craftsmanship. If you are looking for silver, the best quality is
that marked between 800-900K as it contains 80%silver. In both instances, check that the
piece is hall-marked.
Semi-precious stones
Amber and turquoise, the most common, are sold by weight. Amber should be bought with care as imitations abound
- fake amber can be identified with a naked flame since it melts; but ask the remission of the proprietor before
testing it!
Leather Goods
Handbags, purses, shoes and jackets are good quality and the designs are distinctive. Always remember you get what
you pay for. There are different types of leather to choose from and a good quality jacket is
always made from one skin and not patched. This goes for linings as well. In good leather shops, if you
have the time, you can have a jacket made to measure.
Designer Fakes
There are no copyright laws in Turkey and you will see many '' designer '' labels. If you are tempted to
purchase, be aware that the price reflects the quality and that they are likely to lose color or shrink when
washed. Taking counterfeit and pirated goods ( such as watches, clocks, C.D.'s) is prohibited and these goods may
be confiscated by H.M. Customs & Excise staff.
Olive Oil Soap
It may not come gift-wrapped or beautifully scented,but nevertheless is wonderful for the skin.
Turkish Delight ( Lokum )
Comes in a multitude of flavors, including rose,pistachio, hazelnut and orange; at its freshest it should be soft
and succulent. Sample all the flavors before making your selection box.
At its finest, Turkish food is amongst the best in the
world. The range of climate zones means that the
country is one of only six in the world that are self-sufficient in terms of food production.Recipes have been
passed down from generation to generation. As Turkey itself has been influenced by many cultures, different areas
tend to have their own unique and traditional dishes.
The legacy of an Imperial kitchen is also evident.Hundreds of cooks, all eager to please the royal palate, had
their influence in perfecting the cuisine as we know it today. The importance of culinary art for the Ottoman sultans
is evident to every visitor to the Topkapy Palace in Istanbul. By the 17th Century
there were some 1,300 kitchen staff housed at the palace. Every cook specialized in different categories
of dishes, such as soups, pilafs, kebabs, vegetables,fish, breads, pastries, sweets and helva, syrups and
jams and beverages and fed as many as 10,000 a day.Another important factor influencing the variety and development
of Turkish Cuisine was that the Spice Road was under the full control of the sultans.
Following the example of the palace, all of the grand ottoman houses boasted elaborate kitchens and competed in
preparing feasts for each other as well as the general public. In each neighbourhood at least one household would
open its doors to anyone who would stop by for dinner during the holy month of Ramadan or during any other festive
occasions. This is how the traditional cuisine evolved and filtered down to the ordinary people.
What to Eat
Breakfast
A Turkish breakfast normally consists of fresh crusty bread, olives, tomatoes, cucumber, cheese, jam or
honey and sometimes a boiled egg.
Meze
Meze ( hors d'oeuvres ) play an important part in Turkish meals. They are often so delicious and satisfying that
try can often be a meal in themselves, and vegetarians will find plenty of choice. There is a great variety, but
the following meze are some you will find in local restorans and lokantas; sigara börek ( filo pastry wrapped
around cheese and herbs ), potato kroket, cacik ( yoghurt with cucumber, herbs, garlic and watercress ), piyaz
(haricot bean salad ), imam bayildi ( aubergines with minced meat, onion, and tomato ),dolma ( stuffed vegetables-
peppers, vine leaves, cabbage or tomatoes), tursu ( pickled vegetables ), russian and mixed salads. Octupus, squid
and fish meze are also widely
available.
Meat
Kebabs date back to the time of the nomadic Turks who learned to grill and roast their meat over ampfires.There
are numerous varieties, some of which are named after the place where they first prepared - Adana kebab is spicy
with a sprinkling of purple sumac,betraying its Arab influence; Iskender kebab consists of pide, a layer of doner
lamb topped with fresh tomato sauce and yoghourt. Kofte is meatballs, usually without any sauce, and Karisik Izgara
is mixed grill.Lamb is undoubtedly the most commonly eaten meat in Turkey, but chicken and beef are also generally
available. Being a Muslim country, pork is more exceptional.
Fish & Seafood
Fish tends to be more expensive than meat is usually priced by weight. After being seated in a restaurant
it is customary to visit the display to choose your fish and discuss the price and the way you would like
it prepared.
Vegetarians
Vegetarian dishes are widely available. Turkish people cook either in vegetable or olive oil using seasonal
vegetables. Turkish rice, pilau, is especially good and so are the couscous and cracked wheat, bulgur
pilau, dishes.
Snacks
Out on the street you will hear the calls of the street vendors selling anything from corn on the cob to roasted
nuts. Mussels stuffed with rice with a squeeze of lemon are particularly popular with the locals.
Desserts
Turkish people have sweet tooth! On the menu you will find delights such as ''Lips of the Beloved '' (Dilber Dudagi
) and '' Lady's Navel '' ( Hanim Gobegi ).By far the most common dessert after a meal is fresh,seasonal fruits.
Spring starts with strawberries,followed by cherries, figs and apricots. In summer
some peaches, watermelon and honeydew melon and in late summer, grapes, pears and quince. Oranges,mandarins and
bananas are available in the winter.If you ask for fruit in a restaurant, you will
normally be given a plate of mixed fruit,peeled, sliced
and beautifully presented. In addition to fruit, you will find a variety of milk desserts including rice pudding
( served cold ) and creme caramel, pastries, baklava ( filo pastry with honey and pistachio nuts ) and ice cream.